THE WORLD'S BEST TOMATO SAUCE INSPIRED BY RUTH ROGERS
Ruth Rogers admitted that pasta with tomato sauce could pretty much be the answer to every one of the questions I asked her on the Desert Island Dishes podcast. And in that moment I've never felt more connected to another human.
I could eat pasta for breakfast, lunch and supper 7 days a week and never tire of it. And Ruth is so right, that a good tomato sauce is a thing of true beauty. There is beauty in it's simplicity and in the way it provides such a perfect stage to let the ingredients sing. Quality of ingredients is key with a tomato sauce. You hear people wanging on about high quality ingredients and really, you wonder, what difference can it make? A tomato is a tomato is a tomato. But truly, not all tomatoes were created equal. Pick up a hard-as-a-cricket-ball tomato from Tesco in December and you get a weak and watery object only slightly reminiscent of a tomato. Compare it to a sun ripened tender tomato in Italy picked in the height of Summer and the flavour you get is heaven sent. The more flavoursome your initial ingredients are, the easier your job as a cook, as the less you have to do to them to make them taste amazing. Hint: because they already taste amazing.
Of course, we aren't blessed with beautiful tomatoes all year round here in the UK. Does that mean you can't make a brilliant tomato sauce all year round? Of course not. There are great jarred tomatoes which Ruth says are preferable to tinned tomatoes. Although you can use tinned tomatoes but Ruth's tip is to drain your tinned tomatoes in a colander to get rid of the "tomato water" which if added to the pan will dilute your tomato sauce resulting in a less flavoursome sauce. (These are my favourite).
I love the simplicity of Ruth's tomato sauce which consists of tomatoes, garlic and salt - all ingredients I relish in my tomato sauces. I find adding sugar brings out the flavour in the tomatoes and I love using olive oil. I concur with Ruth that fresh tomatoes are best if you can get your hands on some great ones and adding basil in the Summer is wonderful.
However I wanted to share with you a different kind of tomato sauce. Perhaps the simplest tomato sauce I have ever made which is the famous tomato sauce by Marcella Hazan. This sauce requires absolutely no cooking skill at all and is the best example of showing how simple great cooking can be. This tomato sauce defies logic, it shouldn't really work but somehow it does. It lacks garlic and herbs, there is no sugar and it uses tinned tomatoes, juices and all. Regardless of your cooking ability, this sauce is a must try.
2 cups canned plum tomatoes (chopped, whole or otherwise, with their juices)
1 white onion, peeled and cut in half
5 tablespoons butter
salt to taste
Put the tomatoes along with their juices, the butter and the halved onion into a pan.
Add a good pinch of salt and then simmer. Cook gently for 45 minutes.
Stir occasionally and mash any large chunks of tomato with your wooden spoon.
Remove from the heat, taste and add more salt if needed.
Marcella says to remove and discard the onion. By discard I think she merely means to remove it from the sauce to truly appreciate the simplicity of just having the tomatoes.
Truly though, I for one never waste the onion and like to fry the onion separately with some butter to have served with steak, or smothered on a sandwich...it's heavenly.
Serve the tomato sauce with pasta for a truly comforting and magic meal. I have recently discovered this pasta and honestly for me it's been a game changer. The thickness of the strands lends itself beautifully to the tomato sauce and if I'm honest I really cant stop eating it.
If you haven't come across Marcella Hazan before, I throughly recommend reading this. It's the perfect bedtime reading and is truly a book you will treasure forever.
Recipe adapted in my own words from Marcella Hazan's "Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking."